Ston & Dubrovnik Walls, Croatia

6th June 2014

After breakfast we had our driver waiting for us to take us to Ston and Mali Ston for the oyster experience. It did not start off so good because our driver spoke no English and we were cramped into a sedan. So far, thanks to our tour agency Secret Dalmatia, we had been spoilt by comfortable drives in spacious vans, and drivers who were very well versed with the local history and geography. Instead, we focused on the drive and it was the same beautiful road along the dazzling blue Adriatic Sea. Leaving the mainland we entered the Peljesac peninsula well known for producing the famous Southern Dalmatian wines. It was popular with tourists who wanted to enjoy a lazy day driving to the many wineries and indulging in wine tastings. We reached the small town of Ston with the impressive stone fortress walls that are the second largest in the world. 

We visited the Ston salt works where salt production started in the thirteenth century and the harvesting is being done in the same manner since.

We went to the Bota Sare restaurant where we waited for the owner Pero who was going to take us on the informal oyster harvesting tour. There was a bit of confusion with Pero directing staff and his boat crew, and there was a flurry of activity but we did not know what was happening. It seemed like he had received a large tour and all his efforts were focused on organizing that. A little miffed, we got on to the boat but our irritation did not last long because it was the most serene surroundings that greeted us as we gently coasted on the limpid emerald waters.

We stopped at his family’s private island where the staff was busily setting up for the private tour

After tending to them he peered over the side of the small pier and pulled out a couple of ropes that had mature oysters cemented to them. He also pulled out ropes with clusters of shiny black mussels affixed to them.

As he talked about his family business of oyster harvesting and fishing that had been around for generations, he shucked the oysters and mussels still dripping with the brackish sea water and laid it out on a platter with bread, home made olive oil and a cold bottle of house made white wine. I know seafood restaurants tout fresh fish, but we had certainly never had fresher seafood than this!

When we got back to Ston, our appetite for oysters had grown and we sat in his famous restaurant on the waterfront and enjoyed a lovely seafood meal with grilled oysters as one of their specialties.
Back at the hotel we enjoyed the lazy afternoon. In the evening we were back in the old town but this time we were going to climb the walls. 

After we climbed the numerous high, steep steps we began our slow walk around the walls with stunning birds-eye views of the sea on one side and the town on the other.

I can see why this is the most popular attraction in Dubrovnik.  Looking over at the charming town nestled in between the walls gave us a lovely, new perspective of this fascinating location. Along with the others on top of the wall, we simply had to take a ton of pictures trying very hard to capture this moment for a long time to come. 

We had heard that the high profile wedding of Fabiola Hearst was taking place that weekend and watching from up above the town walls, we saw throngs of tuxedoed men and elegantly gowned women walk on the narrow streets to their party destination. The glamorous modern guests juxtaposed with the ancient cobble-stoned narrow paths they were walking upon. After the old town walk, we attended a Philarmonic orchestra in the church right off the Stradun. The interior of the church was softly lit and it was a lovely atmosphere to enjoy the beautiful music. 

We went to Konoba Moskar for dinner and it was a very satisfying meal. We were happy because that was going to be our last meal in Croatia and we wanted it to be traditional but special. 

On the Stradun there were numerous open-air performances and spontaneous singers and we settled in to enjoy the ambience of the lovely old town. We stayed there late into the night trying to savor our last few hours in this enchanting town. 

7th June 2014
Somehow our bags got packed in time and we were off to the airport saying a silent goodbye to the luminous Adriatic Sea that had lifted our spirits for so many days. 
 

 The airport was a mess – extremely crowded and very disorganized. Oh well, we couldn’t  let the chaos of modernization and over-population dampen our enthusiasm.
As a parting tip, Frano had an interesting piece of information for us. Looking at the map of Croatia, he prompted me to ask what it reminded me of. I couldn’t quite place it ( never had been too good with puzzles) but when he declared that the country looks like a strong and benevolent dragon, I immediately saw the resemblance and loved the metaphor. The dragon’s face is in yellow and facing the sea. The body fades from mustard to olive green tip. The dramatic wings are the vibrant blue, pink and red.

Good bye Croatia, you did not disappoint!