Hvar, Croatia

31st May 2014

Saying goodbye to Zadar we headed off to Split enjoying the lovely views again. We had a half hour wait in Split where we met Alan and Diana of Secret Dalmatia who had organized this fantastic trip for us. We then boarded the ferry for Hvar. This was the very first 11am ferry of the season and it was full with every seat occupied. There were a few people with luggage like us, but most just came on board with towels and drinks, looking forward to a day trip to beautiful Hvar. Hvar island is getting more and more famous each month as the news spreads of it becoming the latest Ibiza or Mykonos. Youngsters are rushing there to take advantage of the many nightclubs and bars that are now defining Hvar. But we were there to see the authentic beauty of Hvar and we were not disappointed. Hvar town is a lovely, picturesque town. Approaching the town on the ferry we saw the postcard-perfect sight of the small white houses with red roofs perched on top of each other on the slopes of the hill all the way from the Spanish fortress on the top, to the small idyllic bay below.

We were staying at the hotel Park which was right on the harbor front, but decided to shift to the Amfora hotel because there were too many small steps to navigate at the Park and it would have been hard for my daughter who had a knee injury. After checking in we ate at the Villa Dinka restaurant, which was up on a steep hill. We had some great pizza while we sat on an outside balcony with beautiful views of the cove below us.

Even from that great distance the water was transparent and we could clearly see the different shades of shimmering blue. We were also looking over the grand expanse of the Amfora hotel alongside with the huge pool complex. It looked like a resort on a Caribbean island and walking around on the sweeping grounds of the hotel, we forgot we were on a small island off the coast of Croatia.

My daughter and I decided to explore the labyrinth of streets in the old town. Right from the main square several narrow alleys of steps led precipitously upwards. We chose a pretty pathway adorned with lovely flower baskets and started to climb the steep cobblestoned steps. 

We passed quaint homes and quirky stores and we could simply peer inside the windows and get a glimpse of life here. At the top there was a road that seemed to lead even further up to the Spanish Fortress.
There was a separate walking path through the garden and greenery and we followed that and slowly climbed right up to the top. Several people were enjoying the same trek and stopping to look over the hill to see the beautiful bay below.

We met tourists from Japan, couples from Germany, college students from Missouri, and a group of giggling Malaysian girls. The views from the fortress were spectacular of course. After we trudged back down we treated ourselves to great gelato in the main square and sat down to people watch and enjoy the afternoon.

Back at the hotel after a little rest, we set out again to explore the old town and find a good place to eat. Reaching just beyond the first street was a maze of tiny, tangled streets full of restaurants and cafes. 

They all looked good and tempting but to add to the stress of choosing a place, we had to contend with enthusiastic barkers trying to entice you to try their establishment. We had to fight off the friendly yet aggressive sales pitches coming from every direction and finally we chose a restaurant called Golden Shell because the menu looked different.
 
By this time we were a little jaded by the bland Dalmatian cooking. This restaurant stated that they created traditional dishes with an unusual flair. It was a small restaurant with an outdoor patio out in the back with vine trellises for a roof. There was a pleasant young man who was the waiter and he entertained us with his witty sense of humor. During the course of the amazing, incredible dinner we found out that his father was the chef. We requested to meet with the chef and were so happy to talk to the fine gentleman who took so much pride in his family recipes. He was a big believer of farm to table cooking. We had enjoyed the dinner he had prepared because he had been generous with the local herbs grown right on the hillsides of the island.

After dinner we had the customary gelato on the Main Square and then walked to the famous Carpe Diem nightclub to enjoy a drink and soak in the atmosphere. It was a beautiful setting and the music was great. It was a nice way to end our first night in Hvar.

1st June 2014

After a hearty breakfast the next day we decided to take a break from sightseeing and took advantage of the luxurious pool at the hotel. Armed with our books, sunscreen and I-Pads, we relaxed by the poolside and spent a pleasant day just lounging. We had a nice light lunch in one of the cabanas on the edge of the pool.

For the evening, we had made early dinner reservations at the now-famous Stori Komin owned by Berti and Natasha. Berti’s family had lived in the village of Malo Grabjle for several generations. At some point, all the inhabitants moved to the nearby coastal village of Milna and the original location was deserted. Berti decided to move back to his ancestral home in Malo Grabjle and started cooking for family and friends himself.  Slowly his fame has grown and now he caters to just a handful of tables and cooks only what’s fresh and available that day. I had heard great reviews about the experience of dining here.

We organized a car and driver to take us to Stori Komin. It was only 20 minutes from our hotel, but once we got off the main road, we were on a dirt path for several miles. As we bumped along on the makeshift road weaving in between cliffs and wilderness there was not a soul to be seen. It seemed like we were just cutting through the jungle and about to climb the sheer cliffs in the distance. We reached the completely deserted village and the sounds of the still silence spoke loudly amidst the neglected ruins. We walked amongst the desolate looking remnants of homes, and climbed up to a lone house where we could see wisps of smoke coming out of the rickety chimney. The only inhabited home in this abandoned village belonged to Berti and Natasha and they welcomed us cheerily.

On their rough hewn stone terrace against the backdrop of their vegetable garden, and overlooking the majestic cliffs and craggy mountains ahead, was a solitary table laid out for us with a red checkerboard tablecloth on it under a leafy lattice canopy.

It seemed there was nobody and nothing around for miles except for the rugged solitude around us. 

In the cool, crisp air and amidst the happily chattering birds we sat in silence and marveled at our location. 

Berti presented us with platters of home grown meaty olives, lush tomatoes, and slabs of creamy local cheese and thin shavings of cured ham. Then he brought out the traditional Peka dish with moist lamb and veal and vegetables along with a crisp salad. For my daughter he made an aromatic tomato sauce with spaghetti.

After the sun dipped down behind the darkening mountains, and daylight slowly swirled into oblivion, we moved inside to his kitchen table and admired the rustic, authentic environment. We were proudly shown all the guests’ testimonials and praise and the recognition in newspapers and magazines. They fondly talked about their three daughters and about this busy but beautiful life they had created for themselves. As we carefully made our way back over the rugged paths we marveled at the lovely evening we had enjoyed. 

2nd June 2014

We looked forward to the lavish breakfast at the Amfora in a spacious room with large windows overlooking the terrace and the waters beyond. We decided to take a ferryboat and head off to one of the lovely islands close to Hvar for some sunning and bathing. 

Although Hvar town itself was so beautiful, everybody seemed to suggest that visiting the neighboring Pakleni or Palmizana islands was a must do. We took a large motorboat along with some other tourists who were looking forward to a day of sun and sand just like us. It was such a pleasant boat ride to Palmizana islands as we skimmed over the vivid, sparkling waters so blue and so clear. 

We reached the tiny island harbor and were told to follow a dirt path to the other side of the island where the beach and sunbathers would be. Out there we saw several different areas in the small coves with lounge chairs and relaxing sunbathers soaking up the soothing rays of the sun. Young girls were giggling and standing in a circle in the water enjoying a game of Picigin, the fun Croatian game where you pass the ball around and don’t let it fall in the water. 

Walking around the unsteady rocky beach we came across a restaurant called Laganini that also offered comfortable sun decks to rent on a small pier jutting out into the water. That seemed like the perfect spot to spend the day.

Small taxi boats would stop by on occasion dropping off their passengers. There was a happy group of attractive, Spanish 30 year olds that had taken a day trip off their cruise ship. They were living the life ordering several bottles of champagne and other delicacies. We ordered a light lunch and ate picnic style on our sun beds.

This was surprisingly one of the finest meals we had. We feasted on fresh pasta flavored by an earthy truffle sauce and decadent squid ink risotto with a side of tangy salad of mixed greens.
 
Although the sea was a bit cool, the bathtub clear water was too tempting and I decided to dip in and take a swim. I could see the bright coral on my toenails as I stepped in, but I could also see tons of black, spiny round balls littered on the rocky sea floor. They looked like sea urchins with their ominous looking spiky spines and there were so many of them scattered all around my vulnerable toes. I was wondering how come no guide or hotel staff had warned bathers about these scary creatures. I did not want to attempt getting to know them any better and since I was hugely outnumbered, I beat a hasty retreat out of the water.

The restaurant name Laganini means ‘easy going’ and it was such a fitting name. Around the bar and overlooking the secluded cove were many unique seating areas that just invited you to relax and chill. Local craftsmen used the indigenous wood to create the most unusual, sinewy silhouettes for all the furniture in the restaurant. From the polished, rustic slab of uneven wood that served as the bar to the intriguing design of woodwork that were fashioned into seating places, it was a unique collection worth appreciating. There were several organic yet funky perches created in the trees. Nestled against the many cushions, these were high vantage points, perfect to sit on and look out into the blue seas as the sexy beats of the lounge music softened the mood through the outdoor speakers.

I loved the ambience of this little sleepy restaurant but the friendly waiter Milan told me that they were a very popular spot and come high season in just a couple of weeks one would need to reserve the comfy sun beds and tree loungers almost a day or two in advance. I felt lucky to have experienced this casually quirky restaurant before the crowds descended. 

On our way back on the dusty makeshift path to where our ferryboat was waiting for us, we walked amidst lush greenery and saw a snake languorously slither across our path. Peppy little lizards darted across, and my daughter almost dislocated her knee when one of these pesky creatures nearly landed on her and made her twist and fall! We had to practically carry her back to the boat and diffuse her swollen knee with ice on the boat ride back. 

Approaching Hvar town by boat is a lovely sight where the little town almost looks too picturesque to be real. 

We walked to the posh Adriana hotel that is a sister hotel of the Amfora. We were allowed to use the pristine roof top pool at the hotel. The hotel boasted of several lounging options on three floors all with fabulous views of the sea and the lively town. We even indulged and got massages at their luxury spa. Later we enjoyed a nice cup of coffee as we watched the glowing orb slowly sink behind the hills and the horizon turn pink and purple in homage to the setting sun.

We went to San Marco and ate at the ornamented terrace that practically hung over the main square and it seemed like a very popular place because of the great location. The food however was very mediocre and we were disappointed but the views made up for it.