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It is no wonder that Japan seems to be one of the most desirable destinations these days. Almost everywhere we went, traditional customs and modern techniques blended seamlessly and created a fascinating experience for us.

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The Japanese are a proud and stoic race and are deeply entrenched in their culture. Even wildly dressed fashionistas are happy to follow their family’s heritage and habits.   

I came away with utter admiration for the Japanese discipline and the ease with which they followed rules.  I will always remember and cherish the sincere grace of the average person we met and their commitment to politeness and hospitality.  It was also so strange and refreshing to see such few people on their phones in spite of the hordes of people on the busy streets.  The average Japanese professional is well dressed in a suit and tie. The ladies were very well put together. The older women especially were elegantly dressed and maintained a sense of style and simplicity. The young girls with their Harajuku attitude owned their looks and flaunted their confidence. 

The food was sensational. The freshest fish was abundantly available. Vegetables of all variety were presented in simple and flavorful combinations to accompany the perfect cuts of fish and beef.  The sushi of course, was exceptional and we never had a bad Japanese meal!

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IMPERIAL HOTEL

The Imperial hotel came highly recommended to us by several friends who had visited Tokyo. The hotel is splendid and large and confident in its grandeur. 

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It is proclaimed as the grand dame hotel of Tokyo. It is not ostentatious but elegantly appealing. 

The rooms had comfortable beds, award-worthy showers andfill-tubs that were the perfect antidote to tired bodies after a long day of sightseeing. 

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The breakfast buffet was resplendent with Japanese and Western choices and displayed in beautiful china and silver. TSUKIJI FISH MARKET

The oldest and biggest wholesale fish market in the world is a very popular destination for tourists and locals alike. We didn’t get to go into the inner wholesale market but we did enjoy the outdoor retail and restaurant market.

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The shops sold a variety of fresh and dried fish, many varieties of seaweed and sealed packets of mysterious vegetables and seafood. 

Although we had already indulged in a hearty breakfast and it was only 10.30 in the morning, we went over to the famous SUSHI DAI to have a morning snack of sushi and sashimi!

The fresh fish did not disappoint. 

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We also tried the white strawberries that looked very bland and unappealing but turned out to be succulent, sweet and juicy.

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We couldn’t walk past the stalls selling saucy-glazed crabs without buying one and trying it right there in the middle of the busy market.

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SHIBUYA CROSSING

Tokyo’s famous and frenetic intersection – Shibuya crossing was fun, frivolous and foolish. 

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Outside Shibuya station is the famous Shibuya crossing, definitely the busiest intersection in all of Japan. When the lights turn red, there is made scramble from all directions to cross the streets and it’s quite a sight to observe from high above. However, coming from New York’s frenzied Time Square area, this outburst of people was fascinating but not too overwhelming.  In spite of the quantity of humans scurrying across the crosswalk, the locals portrayed their usual sense of discipline and restraint while the tourists took pains to disrupt the flow by taking selfies and by pushing the limits on the pedestrian-crossing time!

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Nearby at the HEN-NA (means strange) café we marveled at Japanese automation and enjoyed a robot-brewed-coffee!  

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The whole process was quite fascinating and picture worthy, but I don’t think I am going to abandon my favorite baristas anytime soon because even though the robot and its nimble movements was cute in a futuristic way, it failed to impress us because the coffee was terrible!

HARAJUKU

A short walk away is the famous Harajuku shopping area- the one-stop area to experience the hub of Japanese pop culture. Crepes seem to be the snack of choice around here with many a maniacally hued, brightly enticing crepe shops and candy storesdotted along this busy and bustling street. 

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TAKESHITA STREET is the buzzing, happening frenzy of color and over-the-top fashion. It is crowded and fascinating and worth the pilgrimage to start at one end and shuffle along with the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds to the other end.

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A close subway stop away or a pleasant 20-minute walk away is the busiest railway station in the world  - SHINJUKU.  Having received the Guinness world record for the transport hub with the most number of commuters, it has over 200 exits to emerge from. If you know where you want to go, the correct exit will get you at its doorstep but if you attempt this on your first day in Tokyo like we did, you will spend more time walking around to your destination than it took you to arrive at Shinjuku by metro! But that is the charm of walking on the streets of Tokyo. Getting lost while taking in the sights and sounds is so much a part of the tourist experience. 

Frustrated and exhausted travelers have plenty opportunities to recharge by visiting the spectacular food halls of elegant department stores.

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You are faced with stall upon stall of an assortment of foods beautifully laid out – some aromatic and tempting and some not recognizable but appealingly displayed nonetheless. 

RESTAURANT SUSHI GENKI

Our lunch destination (after some research) was Sushi Genki. But when we got there we were dismayed to see a huge crowd of people waiting. Even more disappointing was that almost everyone waiting to get in was non-Japanese and looked like a tourist.  We were hoping for authentic, local sushi but by then we were tired and hungry and decided to join the wait. We mostly heard American, British and Australian accents in the burgeoning crowd around us. 

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We soon discovered why this sushi dive had a cult following. The reviews were spot on- our meal out here was everything they said it would be and so much more. It was a fascinating place to eat – on bar stools at counters, everyone huddled over their own meal and busy with the ritual of ordering and following the ‘system’. The food had to be ordered on individual iPads and the food was ‘rolled’ out to you on conveyer belts.  In spite of the gimmicks and gadgets, I have to say that the sushi was quite good. 

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The food was inexpensive and the atmosphere was fun. They served sake and yummy matcha tea. Everything was automated and a novelty, including the process of paying the check. We had a great meal and a fun afternoon. 

HAMARIKYU GARDENS

There are several venues to enjoy the beauty of the Sakura season and we chose HamaRikyu gardens to see the splendor of the cherry blossoms.

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It’s a beautiful oasis with views of skyscrapers towering over the green gardens and seawater ponds. 

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There was a quaint little teahouse on an ‘island’ on the lake for some tea, treats and time for quiet reflection. The cherry blossoms were of different varieties here and the blooms were pretty in blush pink, pearly white or vibrant fuchsia. 

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We took a waterbus for a pleasant, scenic sail on the Sumida River enjoying the breeze and warmth of the sun. You know you are approaching Asakusa when you can see three iconic buildings in the horizon – the modern symbols of Tokyo! 

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The Tokyo Skytree is a broadcasting and observation tower in Tokyo that is the tallest structure in Japan. The Asahi Beer breweries are in a building that is supposed to resemble a beautiful jug of golden beer with delicious frothy foam on the top! The Asahi Beer Hall next door has a sculpture on top designed by the noted architect Phillip Starck. The Flamme D’or is dramatic and huge (and heavy –weighing in at 360 tons). It is meant to be the ‘golden flame’ but Tokyoites affectionately refer to it as the golden poop!

SENSO-JI ( Asakusa Kannon)

Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo, built to enshrine the tiny statue of Kannon, The Goddess of Mercy that was caught in the nets of two fishermen brothers. 

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The main entrance is through the magnificent Thunder gate with the Gods of Thunder and Wind guarding on either side. There is a giant, vibrant red and black lantern hanging in the middle of the gate – and a very popular and iconic photo-opportunity-stop. 

Upon entrance there are two rows of small but packed colorful souvenir shops that sell almost anything a tourist might want. 

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Inside the compound there is a medley of people bustling in every direction. Daintily dressed women in vibrant kimonos, giggling school children, couples entwined arm-in-arm, devout devotees and wide-eyed gaggle of tourists all scattered helter-skelter in the courtyard.

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VR WORLD – TOKYO
We had the best time at VR WORLD where we escaped reality by getting chased by dinosaurs, or jumping off cliffs, or riding gravity-defying rollercoasters. It was fun for every age and left us breathless and happy to be alive!

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Restaurant Ramen Kazami

TOKYO

We chose Ramen Kazami for our ramen fix and discovered there was seating for only 8 so of course we had a wait. This small restaurant was tucked away in a back alley but it was clearly a favorite. Soon people started emerging from dubious passageways and back lanes to join the line in an orderly manner. Upon entering, you input your order at a vending machine and hand over the ticket to your waiter. The chefs are preparing the ramen over huge pots of delicious simmering broth. 

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It didn’t take us long to decipher the unwritten rules of dining at a Ramen restaurant. The etiquette was to show your appreciation by loud, enthusiastic, lip smacking slurps as was evident by the other diners next to us.  Pretty soon we shed our inhibitions too, and joined the rest of the diners with noisy gusto!

HOTEL RITZ CARLTON- TOKYO

We moved to the Ritz Carlton hotel that did not disappoint with its exemplary service and gracious hospitality. 

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The hotel began on the 45thfloor of the city’s tallest building so the views from the large floor-to-ceiling windows were very dramatic.

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The lively bar overlooked the bright lights of the Roppongi district. The hotel is conveniently linked to the Tokyo Midtown Complex that houses a large, elegant mall, restaurants and the Suntory Art Museum.

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SAMURAI MUSEUM-TOKYO

In the Shinjuku area we visited the small but well-laid out Samurai museum where we watched the performance of a sword battle, listened to the history of the brave and valiant Samurais and played dress-up in Samurai armor and helmets. 

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On our drive to Hakone the next day, we made a stop at a regular rest stop where a lot of buses and travelers stop to stretch their legs and grab a quick bite and refuel their vehicles. America boasts of many convenient service stops along its numerous highways and there is always ample food available for a speedy snack but its mostly fast food and unhealthy meals disguised in appealing combos. The rest stop in Japan however, was a gourmet food market that was stocked up like a duty free shop with epicurean delights that were enticing and appealing.

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 I couldn’t believe this was a regular highway service stop. However popular the golden arch is in the US, it would have paled and rusted its allure in comparison to the gourmand delicacies that were available here!

HAKONE

This green and lush haven is a popular destination for local Tokyoites as well as foreign tourists. Famous for its natural beauty, slower pace of life and therapeutic hot springs, it is a relaxing sanctuary just 65 miles from Tokyo.

It was an unusually cold, rainy and windy day when we drove in from Tokyo and unfortunately our cruise around the lake Ashi as well as the Hakone tramway, was canceled.  We obviously didn’t believe that a little rain and wind should affect the boat ride and tramway, until we stepped off the bus at Owekudani and were (literally) blown off our feet! I cant remember the last time I experienced winds this gutsy and gusty, that barged in through every slit and opening of our clothes to chill us to the bones. We all shrieked with amazement as the wind whipped our hair in frenzy. Owekudani is an active-volcanic valley with sulphuric vents. 

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We couldn’t get an idea of the size of this vast space because the gusty wind swirled the angry mists in a haze around us. The tourist attraction is to eat one of the ‘black eggs’ – the chemical reaction of boiling eggs in the sulphuric hot springs. The eggs taste the same once you crack open the bizarre black shell.

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We stopped at the Kanagawa Wood museum where we got to see the intricate mosaic work that has been a tradition for years.  Different types of wood were shaved really thin and arranged in an intricate pattern to be glued together for a unique mosaic design. The mosaic wood boxes by themselves were lovely, but they were ‘magical’. Every box had a pattern of movements and if they were done correctly the seemingly innocent box would open. The sequence was pretty straight forward but challenging to remember. The gift shop had many handmade wooden toys and items that were charming.

We had lunch at Gora Brewery and Bar that looked ordinary and unassuming from the outside but had a very holistic and organic vibe inside. 

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The main appeal of the restaurant was bringing the outdoors in with vegetation, natural materials and peaceful views of a rock garden through large glass windows. 

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This was one of the Nobu restaurants and so the food did not disappoint and because it was a brewery, we enjoyed their beer selections as well. 

GORA KADAN - HAKONE

For a true Japanese experience, we checked into Gora Kadan, a lovely ryokan organically nestled amidst serene greenery. It was a beautiful experience that enabled us to enhance our five senses.

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The landscaping was not manicured but gave the impression of the plants and trees growing wild in an organic manne

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There was an open-air bath area under the canopy of the trees. The water was fed by the hot therapeutic water of the nearby mineral springs. It was the perfect way to unwind and soak in the soothing waters while enjoying the stillness around.

The hospitality was outstanding and we loved the immersion of Japanese culture. For dinner we dressed alike in simple but elegant Japanese yukatas and enjoyed a lavish kaiseki meal served in beautiful dishes and platters.

 We finished the night with lively raucous Karaoke performances channeling the inner pop star in all of us.

The understated luxury and elegant simplicity of the ryokan was the perfect background to enjoy the tranquil surroundings. Abundance of greenery, simple woodwork and the organic architecture all harmoniously blended to offer the ultimate experience.

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OPEN AIR MUSEUM - HAKONE

The beaming blue sky the next morning was the perfect backdrop for our visit to the Open Air Museum. It was one of the highlights of our trip. The name barely did it justice – on bright green, neatly trimmed lawns were majestic sculptures, art installations by various talented Japanese and international artists. Each sculpture occupied its own space not rivaling the equally mesmerizing sculpture close to it. The pieces of art enjoyed their magnificent displays in the open air with the beautiful views of the peaceful undulating valleys and peaks around.  There were some remarkable structures that were fascinating and a joy to behold

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The Symphonic sculpture was a tall tower with a tight spiral staircase in the middle with beautiful stained glass windows for the entire length of the tower. At the top we were greeted by tranquil landscape all around and the beauty of the shimmering stained glass in the sunlight alleviated the steep climb down. 

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The oversized and thought-provoking exhibits were as impressive as their remarkable outdoor setting. There were so many that caught my eye and grabbed my attention and admiration. 

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There was an exhibition hall devoted to Picasso and his sculptures, paintings and artworks.

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TORII PEACE GATE - HAKONE

After that we went to see the famous floating TORII PEACE GATE on the banks of Lake Ashi. Walking down a winding path bordered by tall pine trees you suddenly come across the serene sight of the magnificent red Torii gate straddling the shimmering waters of Lake Ashi. 

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 This significant Torii of Peace was built in 1952 as one of the landmarks celebrating the peace treaty after WWII.  It was a memorable sight with the Torii gate as a link between the lush wooded area at the lakeshore and the sparkling waters of Lake Ashi hedged by smoky hills all around. 

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BULLET TRAIN- HAKONE TO OSAKA

We drove to the train station for our much-awaited SHINKANSEN experience – the famous JAPANESE BULLET TRAIN. The local Japanese looked nonchalant as they waited for the superfast train to zoom in on to the tracks but the tourists were easily identified as they frantically tried to take photos of the bullet trains that were zipping past our station in a silvery blur as they zoomed off at almost 195mph!

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The train seats were spacious, and clean (but of course) with large picture windows.  We wondered if we would be able to get a clear picture of the iconic landmark of Japan -Mt. Fuji. This Japan’s grand matriarch did not always appear in her full glory but rather hidden from view under the veil of clouds and mist. We were fortunate to be given a clear enough glimpse but had to quickly get our cameras in action before the Shinkansen sped off in a hushed dash. It looked as magnificent as the pictures that try and capture its beauty. 

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OSAKA

Osaka is Japan’s bustling port and a vibrant city known for its nightlife, bright lights and street food. We stayed at the ST. REGIS, a very elegant and upscale hotel in a central location. I especially loved the bathroom that had beautiful views overlooking the vibrant city especially from the vantage point of the bathtub. 

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They had an extensive pillow menu, which made me greedily experiment with all sorts of different pillows, which practically left no room for me on the bed!

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DOTONBORI FOOD TOUR - OSAKA

Part of our tour was a sundowner that started with cocktails at the hotel bar and then we headed out to experience the local culinary delights of Osaka. The Dotonbori district is a lively, crowded market place that is brightly lit and lined with cafes, food stalls, and small restaurants flaunting their specialties

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It was a fun experience to stop at different dives right from a food cart to a tiny obscure restaurant in the basement of the market place. We tried octopus dumplings skillfully molded into gooey balls right in front of our eyes-Takoyaki.

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We indulged in popular street fare- meaty, chewy gyozas. 

We tried the confusing circular heap of delicacies piled high with a variety of ingredients (like a sinful marriage of stuffed pancake and quiche topped with seafood and some savory sauce) – Okonomiyaki.

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We had the famous green tea ice cream.

A walk alongside the Tonbori Riverwalk exposed us to the brightly lit-up iconic touristy signs that had to be the backdrop for some of our photos – like the famous Glico man

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or the larger-than-life crab hoisted high up on the side of the restaurant. 

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It was a nice, lively way to see the local nightlife, enjoy the buzz of the bustling street and savor an assortment of local foods. 

OSAKA CASTLE - OSAKA

Our first sightseeing stop the next day was Osaka Castle.  We did not get to go inside but admired the grandeur and beauty from outside. 

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SUMO WRESTLING - OSAKA

At Kehaya-za Sumo Pavilion, we got a tour and information on Sumo wrestling and watched a match between two Sumo wrestlers.

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The fun started when we got to wear ‘Sumo costumes’ and pretend to be wrestlers ourselves much to everyone’s delight. It was amusing to see puny tourists dressed in a Sumo-fat-suit trying to pitch their weight against the stoic and unwavering stance of the amused Sumo wrestler.

LUNCH AT LE BENKEI NEAR OSAKA

We had an elegant lunch at the Michelin starred French restaurant Le Benkei. It was a superb lunch presented artfully with fresh ingredients and the setting of the restaurant was reminiscent of a French chateau. 

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TODAI-JI TEMPLE

We visited the famous Todai-ji temple complex  (the Great Eastern Temple). The Great Buddha Hall is the main hall of the temple and is the largest wooden structure in the world. Inside the hall, is the impressive and imposing 500-ton statue of the Buddha, known in Japan as the Nara Daibutsu. This is the world’s largest gilded bronze Buddha. 

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NARA DEER PARK - NARA

Nara Park with its 1200 tame and adorable Sika deer is a must-visit. In ancient times the deer were considered to be the sacred messengers of the Shinto Gods, but now are protected as national treasures. One almost believes they know how important they are by their nonchalant ambling and grazing. 

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They are happy to be fed and eagerly coerce the crackers out of the hands of the unsuspecting tourists. Some have perfected the Japanese greeting of bowing their heads gracefully much to the delight of the onlookers and that skill definitely helps them get more treats. 

KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE - NARA

KASUGA-TAISHA is a Shinto shrine recognized for its vermillion colored walls and almost 3000 lanterns- some of them cast in stone as they line the walkways and many in decorative bronze that were donated by the worshippers. 

The lanterns are lit twice a year during festivals in August and February. 

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The whole area has a main shrine and several smaller sub-shrines entwined along smaller pathways. The setting is serene and peaceful.

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RYOAN-JI TEMPLE - KYOTO

 Japan is famous for its Zen gardens and there is no finer example to experience this than the Ryoan-ji temple in KYOTO. 

The pathway to the austere rock garden is through lush, bright greenery and vivid flowers reflected on a pristine lake.  In contrast, the rectangular Zen garden is bold in its stark simplicity. I loved the juxtaposition of the abundant lush foliage with the chaste barren landscape. 

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In a rectangular plot, meticulously laid out gravel pebbles are raked out neatly in graceful artistic swirls as a canvas to 15 odd shaped rocks that create a landscape. For most viewers at first glance, only 14 rocks are immediately visible and one always needs to ‘find’ the 15throck! This garden creates an enigma- the meaning of which is left to the viewer to decipher and attach his own understanding to.

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KINKAKU-JI(Golden Pavilion)

 This is a beautiful Zen temple in KYOTO that is even more spectacular because the top two gold-leaf-covered floors are dramatically reflected in the serene waters of the pond it stands upon.

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 It was built for Shogun Ashikaga in 1393.

It was burnt down several times over hundreds of years. A fanatical monk last burned it down in 1950 and the events were fictionalized in a book ‘The Temple of the Golden Pavilion’.  It was then rebuilt in 1955 and is now one of the most iconic views of Kyoto. 

It is hard to get that perfect picture that truly shows the iconic golden beauty of the temple reflected in the shimmering smooth waters of the lake because of the hundreds of tourists milling around at all times furiously trying to capture that same elusive picture that you are after. 

SAGANO BAMBOO GROVE in ARASHIYAMA is a memorable experience as you walk on pathways between towering stalks of graceful bamboos that sway and swish in the breeze and create a magical and enchanting aura around you that is a treat for the eyes and ears. 

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To get to the bamboo forest, a walk through the beautiful gardens of the Tenryu-ji temple is the perfect prelude to what nature has in store for you. 

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Everywhere the eyes can feast on, there is a wild order in the abundance of flora and fauna. It is almost as if there has been no effort put in creating the systematic chaos of the gardens.

FUSHIMI-INARI SHRINE- KYOTO

It is hard to forget the iconic image of the vermillion colored tunnels created by hundreds and hundreds of torii gates lined up in red and black splendor to honor Inari, the Shinto god of rice. 

Foxes are meant to be Inari’s messengers and that is why you see a lot of fox statues all over the grounds of the shrines. 

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The flame colored walkways stretch for miles up the mountain straddling the trails. It is an unusual hike rewarded by beautiful views of the city below at various vantage scenic points.

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Taking a break from sightseeing we decided to indulge in the ultimate food excursion and visited ‘Kyoto’s kitchen’ or NISHIKI MARKET- just 5-blocks long but stuffed with shops that were equally stuffed with foods and food related items.

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It was an assault on all our senses and we walked around in a daze not knowing what to sample and what to avoid.

The adventurous ones in our family did attempt the most bizarre looking delicacy- baby octopus with a boiled quail’s egg in its brain cavity!

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Oysters were enormous and felt like we swallowed half the sea when we slurped one down!

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Exclusive flavors of pickles were more interesting and were later washed down with much appreciated green-tea matcha ice cream. Wide-eyed tourists like us were easy to spot with their apprehensive and fascinated expressions eager to experience the uniqueness of Nishiki market. 

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TEA CEREMONY

We watched the traditional and ceremonial way of preparing matcha green tea. Our host prepared the tea with elaborate and delicate movements and we got to enjoy the tea after it was served. It was a meaningful ritual that is more about the aesthetics than just the tea and the sweets that are served. 

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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL  - KYOTO

In true Japanese style this hotel wowed with its simplistic understated luxury. Muted colors and stonework inside the hotel kept the décor elegant and organic. 

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The outdoor boasted a beautiful Shakusuien pond garden and lovely outdoor seating to enjoy the glorious landscaping.  

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TEMPLE SANJUSANGEN-DO literally means  (the hall with 33 spaces between the columns)! It is the temple dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. In the main temple hall there is one large dramatic seated statue created by the sculptor Tankei and proclaimed as a national treasure. 

Then there are 1000 standing statues all carved out of Japanese cypress. 

There is no photography permitted and it was quite relaxing to just enjoy the intricate statues and marvel at the different subdued expressions without trying to capture the images. 

The benevolent gaze of the goddesses created a calming experience that led to a contemplative and hushed ambience.   

This is not my photograph that I have used to depict the dramatic impact of the 1000 statues.

 

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KAWAI KANJIRO MEMORIAL MUSEUM

"WHEN YOU BECOME SO ABSORBED IN YOUR WORK THAT BEAUTY NATURALLY ARISES, YOUR WORK BECOMES A TRUE WORK OF ART" 

KAWAI KANJIRO IN HIS ESSAY, WE DO NOT WORK ALONE (1953).

Kawai Kanjiro was Japan’s beloved artist who refused to sign his works of art claiming his work itself should be his identity. He was known to be a potter, writer, poet, philosopher and ceramist and a national treasure.

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His home has been preserved as a memorial for all to view and admire. 

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No trip to Japan would be complete without an encounter with a GEISHA. An elegant evening was organized for us complete with entertainment provided by a geisha and a fabulous Shabu-Shabu feast. The dish gets its name from the Japanese onomatopoeia “shabu shabu” that means “swish swish” which describes the act of swishing the meat in the simmering broth to cook it. 

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With the elegant graceful dancing of the geisha, and the light and flavorful feast of the shabu-shabu, it was a memorable evening.

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After days of sightseeing we wanted to explore the fun evenings that Kyoto had to offer and the best way to do that was to visit the tiny alleyways of PONTOCHO. Pontocho alley runs parallel to the west bank of the Kamogawa River and comes alive at night with a magical, lively atmosphere. 

Restaurants and bars line each side of the narrow street and you can amble aimlessly choosing where you want to find your meal that night. You might spot a brightly colored geisha or two hurrying along.

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Even if we didn’t eat in one of the many enticing restaurants, we enjoyed a walk down Pontocho alley every evening because the atmosphere was so vibrant and lively.

. Japan has so much more to offer and even though we did cover a few cities and we did see several temples and shrines, I do believe we only just scratched the surface. I was very impressed with the Japanese culture, and their devotion to their traditions. I felt the Japanese were welcoming yet reserved, disciplined yet strangely flamboyant but above all they were a proud but pleasant race and it was a pleasure to get to know them.

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Many happy memories filled my mind as I was leaving Japan but two bizarre thoughts dominated my mind –firstly, how on earth did the Japanese have the will power to stand at intersections with the utmost patience and self-control? 

How were they not tempted to cross the street even though there was no car approaching the crossing for several hundred feet? They stood with fortitude and without fidgeting and I marveled at their restraint. I have to confess, like incorrigible New Yorkers we did indulge in nonchalant jaywalking and jumping DONT-WALK signs with flagrant disregard in spite of the horrified stares of the locals. 

And secondly, as I flew away from the small island of Japan, I knew what I would absolutely miss the most – TOTO TOILETS!! 

The Japanese feat of modern engineering, high-tech luxury and the undisputed marvel of the bathroom! Just use it to believe it!

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