Montenegro

5th June 2014
The next morning was our excursion to Montenegro and our driver Frano was just as knowledgeable, friendly and informative along the entire drive to the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The recent homeland war was still a very touchy topic and we realized soon enough not to enquire which side was at fault. Driving out of Dubrovnik, we were not disappointed with the views and Frano generously offered to stop at perfect vantage points where we could capture some great pictures of the old town from above and the green island of Lokrum off to the side. 

After navigating the steep winding roads around the water’s edge, we drove inland through a valley. It was picturesque and pretty and studded with small family owned vineyards.
We had heard great things about Montenegro and were looking forward to seeing what this neighboring country had to offer. The transformation after the border crossing was almost immediate. We drove on streets surrounded by gritty neighborhoods, sparsely populated with haphazardly arranged homes. It seemed to be a poorer, less developed neighbor and even the waterfront seemed shamefully unrefined and bland. Reaching the Bay of Kotor, the surroundings were more beautiful and we met with our guide to start our walking tour of the old town. 

The old town was a dream for history buffs with several churches and museums to tour. We were regaled with the rich history of the area and traces of the past rulers were evident in the numerous buildings and palaces. The cathedral of Saint Tryphon the city’s patron saint, was particularly lovely to visit. The impressive walls and fortifications around the small medieval town were built right into the sides of the steep St. John’s hill overlooking the town.

We spent the afternoon exploring and ambling along with narrow streets of the old town and enjoying the many small squares filled with cafes, restaurants and shops.

From almost wherever we strolled, just by looking upwards we were greeted by the spectacular sight of the sheer cliffs looming and protecting the old town. We could see tiny ant-like tourists ambitiously making their way up the steep wall steps to be rewarded by the beautiful views from up above.

We did not feel so energetic and soon after looking around we got back in the car and headed back to Dubrovnik.

Driving back on the winding road along the large curvy bay, we saw the Verige strait, the narrowest part of the bay less than 1000 feet across. Our driver Frano decided to take a  different route back through the valley. Crossing back into Croatia, the hills were green and fertile. We drove slowly crossing tiny hamlets comprised of a handful of pretty red-roofed houses grouped together. Olive groves and grape orchards spread out around these little villages. Proud of their family orchards and plantations, apparently the family elders individually bequeath each and every olive tree to their offspring and dependents.  Driving through the countryside, we saw several ‘Wild Boar Crossing’ signs, which I found amusing. We drove through the lush green Konavle valley which was the only silk producing region of Croatia and the locals are very proud of their regional custom of using the silk to weave the traditional Croatian costumes.

Frano stopped at a traditional tavern called Konavoski Dvori to show us the beauty of this verdant valley. 
This was a traditional restaurant in a very beautiful setting on an ancient mill. The effervescent sound of the sparkling Ljuta River gushing under the dense woody foliage was very therapeutic. Walking down narrow footpaths in between the trees, we listened to the birds and the sounds of nature over the background sound of the gurgling river. We walked to the old sheds that had housed the mill. 

The restaurant was famous for its traditional food and they had an enormous clay oven to cook the meats under the iron bell and the water wheels used the rumbling river to turn the rotisserie grills. 

They also had their own trout farms making trout an appealing choice on their menu. The waiters served in traditional costumes and this restaurant had become a popular destination for busloads of tourists. River Ljuta (means angry) gushed down the hills and the local farmers had formed several channels to utilize the clean, crisp waters for their fields.

It was a leisurely drive back to the Dubrovnik through other scenic and informative routes.
At our hotel Lapad we enjoyed a nice cup of coffee and decadent chocolate mousse while sitting on the poolside patio. 

Later that evening we took the bus back to the old town of Dubrovnik and went to Nishta for dinner. Nishta was a very small, quirky café right on the tiny streets of the old town and their specialty was flavorful vegetarian cuisine of different ethnicities. It was one of the better meals we had in Croatia.

After dinner we walked around the old town, a bit warily at first and keeping an eye out for policemen, but the mood was magical and the old town looked so enchanting in the softly lit atmosphere.

Back at the hotel they had a trio of performers and singers entertaining the guests with enthusiastic sing-alongs and we happily joined in as a fun way to end the day.