Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
The next day we drove to the much-awaited Plitvice Lakes. We had a lovely guide with us – Ivana. She too had a wealth of information to share and kept us entertained with the history and geography of the land as we drove towards the national park. Now we were driving away from the coast towards the mountainous interior. One side of the mountains was mostly rugged rocks and shrubs but once we snaked through a 6km long tunnel and appeared on the other side, a lush jungle of spruce and pine trees greeted us. We were cruising across a beautiful countryside. Green meadows were so pleasing to the eyes as we drove past small villages with little clusters of neat homes with red-tiled roofs. We were told that most of the occupants here in the valleys were either cattle breeders or trained park rangers. I was reminded a little of Switzerland as we coasted along the verdant valleys and picturesque hamlets. We were told that recently a special cow cheese from Pag had won the 1st prize in a European cheese competition. The cows graze on the special herbs native to the area and hence the milk they produce has a distinct flavor.
Ivana suggested a rest stop at a large Konoba called Matzola, which was very popular with the local bus and truck drivers because the owner always welcomed them and gave them a hearty hot meal on the house. She wanted to show us the owner’s ‘personal zoo’ at the back of the homestead. As we walked past the herb gardens, the very first animal we saw was a placid, big, brown bear sitting on his haunches and chewing on a stick while another bear was watching him somberly. There was a pen with three wild boars and we saw a miniature pony, several deer and the typical farm inmates like sheep, goats and chickens.
On arrival at Plitvice, there was understandably a sea of tourists all eager and energized to experience Croatia’s most appealing attraction. Ahead of us was the magnificent sight of a tall, sinewy thundering waterfall foaming into the clear emerald lake beneath. We could see throngs of people snaking their way to the base of the waterfalls, and then we couldn’t see them anymore as the spray from the cascades misted over them.
We started down the steep zigzag path in a single file following the path to the base of the falls. The area had received an abnormal amount of rainfall and the water had spilled over onto the paths and the route was muddy and wet. There were makeshift planks placed on top of the sludge to help the people walk across. Standing beside the towering falls was exhilarating and we turned our faces towards the cool torrent to embrace the spray.
We began our exploration of the area following the numerous planked paths that meandered around several stunning waterfalls. The winding trails were simply fashioned to blend in with nature and be a part of the very lush vegetation.
The luxuriant foliage and the diversity of the leafy trees were a perfect backdrop to the 16 lakes all creatively inter connected by several sequences of waterfalls scattered through out this green forest complex.
The waters were a transparent green in every lake and it was a delight to be able to see the fish as if they were swimming in emerald bath water in between the submerged logs. The whole woodland area along with the invigorating waterfalls and babbling brooks was a sight so breathtaking, that it involved all of our senses to fully appreciate the beauty of the land we were walking about in.
This natural woody wonderland had understandably joined the UNESCO world heritage list in 1979. As a matter of fact before leaving home I had read up on Plitvice Lakes to get some idea of what to expect. Now as I walked around marveling at everything green and fresh and fragrant, I knew no amount of reading or looking at pictures would have prepared me for this sight, and I just wouldn’t have the right words to capture the essence of the place.
After coming back to Zadar we went to a nice restaurant recommended by Ivana and sat in the open-air terrace besides an old well, and had great seafood, pasta and fresh tomato soup.
Later that evening after enjoying the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun we decided to explore the other side of the old town. It was a Friday night and as we walked around the small streets the atmosphere was lively and festive. The students of the University of Zadar were out and about celebrating and enjoying the weekend. There was music playing everywhere and the atmosphere in the crowded streets was lighthearted.
We noticed several people heading up old stone steps to a park all lit up with blue and white lights and there was music blaring from there. It turned out to be the first summer concert of the year with a live band, a DJ and some performers and magicians. It was a magical night in this park because it was organized like a plush upscale lounge bar, with several seating areas scattered through out. Many tables and chairs were made of Lucite and lit from within. We found comfortable wicker armchairs and with a drink in hand brought an end to our perfect evening in an ideal setting.